Sunday's Solstice marked the longest day of the year, when the day sprawls out, light overwhelms the dark, and it is possible to play outside long after the usual limit to when one can have fun. Weekends in the summer in our seasonally driven town evoke a more rural experience - you must reap the harvest of the abundance that visitors bring from Texas, California and places farther down the road - so my partner and I finished our respective work gigs and scrambled to organize ourselves for a little trip down to the river. We loaded gear into the back of the truck, strapped the canoe to the roof rack, and I drove my car down after a quick return to the house for the necessary cooler.
Down in the canyon south of Taos we dropped off the car for the later shuttle back to the put-in and then made our way to the Taos Junction Bridge, which straddles this part of the Río Grande Wild and Scenic River. There, we made quick work of unloading the canoe and hauling gear out and into the craft, organized the load, and had a Lagunitas Day Time IPA cracked before we'd even left the beach. Oh, and of course we zipped ourselves into our PFDs (personal flotation devices), before we departed.
The Río Grande has been flushed with water, contrary to its typical meager June flow, because rains fall and irrigation has slackened in the wheat fields of Colorado. It was 1,700 + CFS (cubic feet/ second) on the Solstice, but at this time of the year it can dwindle to a quarter of that. For our purposes, the flow carried us along with minimal guidance when the water increased speed at constrictions, and we helped ourselves along, paddling through the flat water. This stretch of the newly designated Río Grande Del Norte National Monument has long been called the Orilla Verde, and it is mostly a float with several class 2 rapids, meaning these places require some maneuvering around obstacles and present faster current.
The first of two rapids we had to negotiate is named Gauging Station for the CFS gauging station that is evidence you have nearly arrived. Generally it's a descent along a tongue of water narrowed by numerous rocks, but at this water level our canoe hurtled along in the rowdy waves, most rocks submerged to form holes to be avoided. My partner, an experienced boater, guided us into the slower water of mid-river eddies formed by rocks above the surface, and we managed to reach the bottom not only unscathed, but upright and barely wet.
Although Father's Day or Solstice celebrants crowded the launch and all the places where brush had been trammeled back, we had the river to ourselves. Well, we were the only self-conscious animals to be found on the water. Dusk, at 7:30 on the longest day, is a perfect time to float the river, uncrowded except for the increased activity of these creatures, who are more welcome than humans after an intimate day guiding them in a raft or giving them massages.
Our first sighting was a four legged: a slender buck with stubs of antler covered in velvet, who watched us in return with limpid and curious eyes. We heard the crack of beaver tails on the surface, but they eluded our sight until the sky's hue dominated rose rather than blue. Once, we watched as someone dragged a flowering branch into the reeds, and guessed it to be a beaver.
The river corridor hosts many species of birds - we saw Western tanagers, ducks and geese with fuzzy, pint sized entourages, swallows and kestrels - the most dramatic of which is the night heron (Nycticorax nycticorax). I watched a bird land river right several hundred yards downstream and thought I saw the gangly, long legs of a heron, but when we approached that spot, we saw the chunky, penguin-like body of a night heron, feathered black and white, sporting feathery tendrils from its temples, red eyes turned black in the gloom. It posed, unconcerned with our proximity, and we were the ones who startled when another slap resounded next to us. We turned and watched as not one but two beavers swam upstream, their sleek bodies leaving little wake, except for a trail of bubbles to mark their passage.
At that moment, we reached the top of the second rapid and were quick to turn our attention to the choppy wave train ahead. The canoe crested waves several feet high and slapped a few when they hit off rhythm. Cool water leaped up and into the boat, playful as a child who splashes in a puddle. Once successfully through, we raised our paddles in a boater's high five and marveled at the encounter: night heron - so odd and beautiful - along with the elusive beavers spotted and a fun rapid that challenged but did not overwhelm us.
As we neared the take out, we praised the Solstice in all its glory. Late on the river, fauna to encounter, and the day transmuted into dusk, then dark. Time spent together with my partner in play and wonder. The waxing crescent moon arced above, and Venus and Jupiter came into alignment with our celestial neighbor. The río continued to flow toward the sea, part of the circulatory system of the planet. Summer has begun.
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