Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Earthship travels

Maybe this is true in your town, and maybe not, but in our little mountain town most of the adult transplants have some variation on a quirky story about how they arrived and then stayed, whether they intended to prior, or not. Down in the southern part of the state, we have Roswell, with space ship crash downs; here in Taos earthships have landed. They are the lure that brought me through northern New Mexico and inspired me to move here, and they were the foundation of the first part of my story here.

Earthship? Think off the grid housing, reused, reclaimed, recycled: tires, cans, bottles and dirt, tons of dirt. These were the DIY (do it yourself) solution to housing that architect Michael Reynolds dreamed up in the 1970s that have been built by the sweat equity of thousands of people laboring in dozens of countries around the world, in climates as varied as the high desert of Taos to the rainforest of Guatemala. His vision includes thick walls (think a mid size car's tire width bulging with the earth rammed inside), oriented toward the southern sun and bermed at the north to utilize passive solar most efficiently and the earth's constant temperature as a buffer to extremes of hot and cold, rain and snow collection off the roof, and use of grey water in planters where you can grow your own meal year round. They integrate with the landscape and function with minimal external input once complete, thus the earth ship, one with which to travel the mesa sea that encapsulates much of the terrain around their origin. These buildings have other features and modifications that allow them to function in varying climates, but to find out more visit the Earthship Biotecture website earthship.com or visit their visitor center in the Greater World community when you next find yourself a few miles west of the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge.

I first heard about these innovative structures in 1998 from a roommate in a cooperative house in Seattle, and my exchange student boyfriend and I were intrigued from first mention. We decided that we would visit Greater World when we drove across the southwest that summer in my 1969 Volkswagen van, and we stayed there a week out of the month and half we were on the road. We met an architect who rented an earthship for the month's duration of an internship and he invited us to stay in the spare bedroom. We fell in love with curved walls and tranquil ambiance, with the beauty of subtle details: cupboards fronted in beaten copper, plaster embedded with mica sparkling in the light that poured through ceiling high windows and planters a profuse riot of blossoms and green leaves. I slept as well in that room as I have ever slept anywhere, and the desire to return and live in such a place rooted within even before we left.

The following summer I sat in the pub where that same former boyfriend tended bar, trying to figure out my next step after I left Edinburgh. I planned to either travel to India to learn massage or fly back to Seattle, pack the van and return to Taos to work for the earthship building crew and set myself up as a contractor and build these houses myself. He convinced me that NM held more prospects and that I might get lost in India.

By October of 2000 I extricated myself from my life in Washington and headed south. I managed to survive the drive to Taos, although the van's front end crumpled during a high speed collision with a deer in Colorado. A little over 30 years old, it still rolled over mountain passes with confidence. I lived in that van in the parking lot of the earthship community's visitor center for the first month, while I volunteered for the building crew, instead of working for them as I had assumed I'd arranged before I ever left Scotland.

Around the time my savings dwindled so did enthusiasm for doing thankless hard time. I found work at the local ski area, and I connected with an absentee earthship owner and arranged a work trade for rent-free living. I never really did much more than clean up the space, wage war on tumbleweeds with fire, and battle futilely against the dirt clods that fell from the unfinished walls on a regular basis. There's not much work in a finish-upper that can be done lacking funds, tools and supplies.

The best parts of living there were my two roommates, lovely, fun and eclectic women also in their early 20s. One made beautiful stained glass art and necklaces strung with dry animal dung, and the other had a dry, dark sense of humor and became my ski buddy after I learned how to do it. She switched from snowboarding, due to our resort's prohibition on one plank snow sliding. It was this latter gal's birthday yesterday, and I cheered this woman on from afar in a social media way. You know, well-meaning but vague. And not actually on time, because I realize in writing this that I just thought happy birthday wishes, and about that long ago friendship in an earthship, but never typed the words and sent them across the web. Until now.
Thank you, friend. I'm grateful for your companionship during those long ago quiet mornings drinking coffee, dancing under the stars, for the thrill of hurtling down the mountain with you. I'm grateful, too, for the ship that brought me to this town, for the possibilities I foresaw when I arrived, and even more for the detours that became a life I'm blessed to have created. You never know where the current will take you, particularly when you travel in an experimental craft.

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